Land of martyrs" Kazakhstan awaits Pope's visit

KARAGANDA, Kazakhstan - Like many of those who people Kazakhstan's vast and inhospitable steppes, Emilia Kostyuk's family was banished here against their will by the Soviet state in the 1940s.

Kazakhstan has a flock of Catholic believers estimated at 360,000, but ministering to them is not the only reason behind Pope John Paul's September 22-25 visit. He comes to heal the wounds of Soviet oppression, and pay respect to a departed friend.

"The Pope's visit to Kazakhstan is a visit to a sacred land, strewn with bones of people of all nationalities and soaked in their blood," said 73-year-old Kostyuk as she walked to a modest Catholic church in this bleak industrial city.

"I pray for the Holy Father's visit to this sacred land. With God's blessing, future generations should never see what we experienced," she added.

The Pope, who will say mass in the new capital Astana, is expected to pay tribute to the hundreds of thousands who died in concentration camps and millions evicted to the barren steppes under Soviet dictator Josef Stalin in the 1930-50s.

The Pope's friend, Father Wladislaw Bukowinski, provided consolation to those repressed despite his own sufferings.

Karaganda Bishop Jan Pavel Lenga said the Pope's visit to Kazakhstan, his 95th mission abroad, was likely to acquire a special meaning.

"Kazakhstan has the right to compassion," he told Reuters.

"The Holy Father has repeatedly said that he highly values those martyrs who sacrificed their lives doing good, those who did not become embittered and preserved their faith despite the tortures they had come through."

GREAT TRAGEDY FOR MILLIONS

"Many still wonder, why there are hundreds of thousands of Catholics in Kazakhstan," said Father Adelio Dell'Oro who runs a branch of the Catholic charity Caritas.

"Obviously, all these people did not win a tour. Most of them came here against their will, and their fate is tragic."

Karaganda, a wind-swept region of coal mining and metallurgy that lies in the heart of the sprawling country of 15 million, has probably witnessed most of the suffering and grief that befell Kazakhstan during the last century.

More than two million people, including more than 900,000 ethnic Germans, were forced to migrate to Kazakhstan during Stalin's forced collectivisation campaign, his crackdown on Catholics and banishing of peoples seen as "unreliable."

Historians say another 2.14 million people were sent to Karaganda's gulag prison camps, where many perished from illness and hunger.

Karaganda, which means "black stone" in Kazakh and where temperatures fall to minus 40 Celsius (-40 Fahrenheit) in winter, held nine of the 16 gulag camps set up by the communist authorities in Kazakhstan.

Modest obelisks and wooden crosses dot the endless steppe, where crumbling barracks and ramshackle watch towers are silent reminders of past atrocities.

LEGENDARY PASTOR BUKOWINSKI

Bukowinski, who died in 1974 and is buried in the wall of a local Catholic church, is among the most revered pastors of a Catholic community in Karaganda that survived decades of repression and militant atheism.

Born in the Ukrainian town of Berdychev in 1904, Bukowinski worked in the Polish city of Krakow from 1931-36. In 1939 he headed the Lutsk monastery in western Ukraine which was annexed by the Soviet Union from Poland later in the year.

Preaching in Poland, Bukowinski made friends with a young priest Karol Wojtyla, who was elected Pope John Paul in 1978.

In the 1940-50s, Bukowinski served three terms in prisons and labour camps before he was finally released during Nikita Khrushchev's "thaw" that denounced Stalin's personality cult.

"Bukowinski is a real martyr deeply respected by the Pontiff, and there are plans to canonise him," Bishop Lenga said. "We are now preparing his portrait as a present for the Pope."

The yellow, time-worn pages of Bukowinski's file compiled by the NKVD/KGB Soviet secret police reveal the typical official attitude to Catholics in Soviet times.

"Bukowinski inspired religious fanaticism and distracted youth from communist upbringing," said one of the charges. "He praised capitalist countries and the anti-Soviet policy of Vatican," said another.

Although the Soviet authorities freed him from prison, they did not offer freedom of worship, and later in his life Bukowinski was forced to preach clandestinely.

"We had real faith and devotion. It appears that those banished were the best people in the former Soviet Union," said 75-year-old Sister Klara, who was sent to Siberia and Kazakhstan from the Volga region in 1942 with other ethnic Germans who Stalin feared might collaborate with advancing Nazis.

Today, Karaganda is a drab Soviet-style industrial city of 500,000, plagued by street crime, AIDS and drugs, where whole residential areas abandoned by tenants are being demolished, the bricks and concrete slabs sent to build the new capital.

Catholic Church officials say the Pope will speak about moral rejuvenation and spiritual values.

"There is a lot of poverty around, but what shocks me most is spiritual indigence," Father Adelio said.